Catt-Trax 2 - Sacred Valley

Jan 5, Mountain Biking in the Patacancha River Valley

Danny Catt — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 22:19:34 -0800

A good friend of mine runs an adventure travel (or multi-sport) operation out of Vancouver called BikeHike Adventures. When I told her I was going to travel independently in Peru for a couple of weeks, she told me that one of the best ways to see the landscape, meet the local people and get some exercise at the same time is to either bike or hike! I didn’t have time to do the full Inca Trail (which you can hike) but I did have time to do some biking! So early this morning a young fellow came to the hotel and asked if I was ‘ready to go mountain biking’? I wasn’t quite sure how the day was going to pan out (was I going to have to bike UP and then bike back DOWN?) … but I was prepared for anything and keen to go with the flow. My guide, Docty, is an experienced mountain bike guide as well as an Inca Trail guide and it was a pleasure to have some one on one time with someone from the area.

Patacacha River Valley, Peru

Docty lives in Cusco, studied engineering at university, but has returned to do studies in tourism as that is his passion. Both his father and one of his brother’s are engineers, so that is why he followed that academic path… but figures he is now on the right track with tourism.

As I soon found out, the day was not exclusively a mountain biking day… and the plan was NOT to ride up the mountain (phew!!) … but instead drive up a reasonable distance and then ride down the mountain (right on!!).

En route we bumped into a procession of locals heading into the big town (relatively speaking) of Ollantaytambo (population 2000). Over 90% of Peruvians are Roman Catholic and the group was escorting into town a small statue of baby Jesus in preparation for a celebration the next day.

Procession in Patacancha River Valley, Peru

The group, who were from one of the small villages up in the mountains, were very pleasant and insisted I take a picture of the baby Jesus sheltered in a glass case. They even washed the glass and opened the case for me to be able to get a clear photograph! Once my shutter was released, the glass door was shut and the procession continued to town.

Baby Jesus Statue, Patacancha, Peru

We drove up the Patacancha valley to an elevation of almost 14,000 feet (what is that in metres?) where we visited some of the locals, and were given the opportunity to see how they live. I had a brief glimpse inside a small, dark cicular hut, which was home for two people (a mother and daughter). It was windy and cool, and the living conditions seemed challenging (to say the least) but we were greeting with smiles and generosity. It was a fabulous opportunity to observe the local customs (weaving for example) and gain an appreciation for the rich local culture.

Young Girl in Her Home, Patacancha River Valley, Peru

After our visit we took our bikes off the roof of the vehicle and started our descent. I couldn’t help but stop every couple of hundred metres as there was so much to see (and photograph!). I watched a young boy catch a trout from the Patacancha River, while across the valley I could see a few women whipping their laundry against the rocks to smack out the dirt and grime. We passed two or three small rainbow trout farms and we even stopped in a small village where the local shaman performed a coca-leaf ceremony for me.

I was very pleased to have the blessing of the local shaman who told me (after reading the coca-leaves) that my journey would be successful, that I would have to work hard, and that I would be lucky in both my work and in matters of the heart. He did though tell me that I had to be careful with my health… and in particular with what I ate. Good advice!

Our close to 4000 foot descent under clear sunny skies ended in early afternoon. Time for me to try to do a bit of writing and photo downloading.

Another night in Ollantaytambo. On to Macchu Pichu tomorrow!

January 4, 2007 – Sacred Valley, Peru

Danny Catt — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 22:05:42 -0800

I packed up my things once again and was off fairly early for a visit to the Sacred Valley of the Incas, and the very same valley that has been carved over the millennia by the raging Urubamba River. The Urubamba is one of Peru’s most famous whitewater rafting rivers … but at this time of year (the wet season) the water is a rich coffee brown, loaded with silt, and the river’s volume is so high that it is virtually un-runnable by even rafts! The valley itself though is green and fertile and as a result is filled with agricultural fields growing corn and potatoes, which are two of the main foods for the locals.

Urubamba River Valley

Two main stops for tours in the Sacred Valley, from primarily an archaeological perspective, are Pisac and Ollantaytambo. Our first stop was Pisac, where there is an Inca fortress situated high up on a plateau overlooking the valley and the village below. Rather than go to the archaeological site though we visited the famous Pisac market (which to be honest was my preference). Wandering through and poking around in local markets, seeing what is for sale (and perhaps buying a few small items), and who is selling it, is something I love to do.

Pisac Market Products, Pisac, Peru

I also enjoy photographing in markets, and when taking photos of people I always like to ask permission first. As a result I often end up ‘negotiating’ a photo to go along with a small purchase. One of the women in the market did quite well by me… as I think I paid the highest price ever for a hand-woven belt. She was pleased … but so was I!

Weaver at Pisac Market, Peru

In the afternoon we visited the famous fortress of Ollantaytambo (I finally figured out how to pronounce it!!). Ollantaytambo’s claim to fame is that it was where the Inca defeated the Spanish Conquistadors in a battle. This rarely happened, and unfortunately the victory was short lived. The Spanish simply came back with more men and eventually were victorious. The site though is remarkable and is said to be one of the best surviving examples of Inca city planning with narrow cobblestone streets that have been inhabited consistently since the 13th century!! Do you think the streets of Vancouver or Burnaby would last for 800 or more years? Hmmm, I am guessing not!

I had a nice rainbow trout meal with asparagus soup, and washed down with a cup of coca-leaf tea. Most of the rainbow trout sold in the restaurants are farmed trout ‘grown’ in small pools high up in the mountains. These family operations are quite distinct from the huge fish farms on the coast of Chile. We will talk more about those once I reach South America’s narrowest country.

I spent the night in Ollantaytambo.

Pisac Market Products, Pisac, Peru

Danny Catt — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 22:04:33 -0800

Weaver at Pisac Market, Peru

Danny Catt — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 22:00:01 -0800

Urubamba River Valley

Danny Catt — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 21:58:15 -0800

Locals Celebrating Near Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley, Peru

Danny Catt — Mon, 08 Jan 2007 21:49:17 -0800